Clutch bite

[5parkyuk]

Ridden about 300 miles on my Sp Now
Have something weird going on with the clutch.
If i give her more than 4 thou she bites like an on of pulsing switch ,anything under its as smooth as silk.
I have bleed it twice.
Any ideas ?

[Sppete]

Have you had it apart yet?
I'd strip it out and check the plates and basket. It may have had a hard time in the past and need a bit of attension. Check the inside of the basket for grooves. It could cause the plates to stick and then suddenly brake free.
It's very easy to get at and you dont even need to drain the oil.

[5parkyuk]

I Have never stripped a clutch ,no idea where to start to be honest ?

[5parkyuk]

NICKED FROM ANOTHER FORUM
Apparently this is a KNOWN fault . ,here is how you can upgrade.

To change your SP1 clutch plates to SP2 clutch plates, you'll need:

Qty 5, Clutch drive (friction plates), pn 22201-MAT-E00
Qty 1, Disk-A (outer friction plate), pn 22201-MAT-000
Qty 1, Disk-B (inner friction plate), pn 22202-MAT-000
Qty 1, Judder Spring, pn 22402-MAT-000
Qty 1, Judder Spring Seat, pn 22125-MAT-000

Disks A and B are identified by one tab colored green on the outer edge, and have dark speckles on the friction material.
Disk-B is the inner friction plate that has larger I.D. to clear the judder spring.
Disk-A is the outermost friction plate, and has its tabs installed on the shallow slots of the clutch basket.

The 6 steel drive plates are all the same on SP1 and SP2.

On an SP1, to replace friction disks, just order Qty 7, pn 22201-MAT-E00

[Sppete]

Good find
Make sure you soak the new clutch plates in new engine oil overnight or it will slip.
I popped mine into ziplock bags because I couldn't find a pot big enough to put them all in at once, you don't have to use half as much oil that way either

Pete

[VVTR]

mmmh wonders if the plates are the same on the firestorm as this is also a known fault there too.
mine started doing it after a few runs on the strip at bulldog....

too hard a launch and it goes NERRRRR, grabs, & tries to throw me off the back lol.
tried new storm plates, new bsket etc, same.

one lads even changed out the clutch main bearing thinking it may be that but was the same.
tried taking judder spring out, no difference!

[5parkyuk]

Mines a completes bstard ,anything over 4k rpm and its basically an on off random switch.
Going to try semi synth as im running full at the moment ,just as a desperate measure.

[steelsey]

No way, just about to post this question and here it is. I have recently been having a snatchy clutch and thought it was me dumping the clutch too soon but noticed the operation has not been that predictable. One thing I did not address when I stripped my bike back was the clutch. Is the upgrade to the SP2 version the done thing then?

[steelsey]

NICKED FROM ANOTHER FORUM
Apparently this is a KNOWN fault . ,here is how you can upgrade.

To change your SP1 clutch plates to SP2 clutch plates, you'll need:

Qty 5, Clutch drive (friction plates), pn 22201-MAT-E00
Qty 1, Disk-A (outer friction plate), pn 22201-MAT-000
Qty 1, Disk-B (inner friction plate), pn 22202-MAT-000
Qty 1, Judder Spring, pn 22402-MAT-000
Qty 1, Judder Spring Seat, pn 22125-MAT-000

Disks A and B are identified by one tab colored green on the outer edge, and have dark speckles on the friction material.
Disk-B is the inner friction plate that has larger I.D. to clear the judder spring.
Disk-A is the outermost friction plate, and has its tabs installed on the shallow slots of the clutch basket.


The 6 steel drive plates are all the same on SP1 and SP2.

On an SP1, to replace friction disks, just order Qty 7, pn 22201-MAT-E00

Did you try this? any results?