HondaVTRSP.com

Hey up.

Just done an oil change and noticed in the radiator reservoir the blue Silkolene radiator coolant I put in about 500miles ago is brown and had a fair amount of sediment in it. I just emptied the reservoir and refilled with fresh coolant. Bit baffled by this as when I got the bike I stripped the whole system, fitted new thermostat, cleaned out the pipes etc as the radiator coolant was brown and mucky looking. Has anyone got any thoughts on this? am I being pedantic and it's just some excess sediment left in the rads or could it be something a bit more serious!

I think this is in the wrong section....

Other than that, in all likelyhood it's probably residual crap left in from when you changed the fluids, if it were a gasket leak, you'd probably find the engine oil turning a funny colour as well as it'd also be getting coolant into it.

Ha, it is in the wrong section hahaha and thanks for your reply. I emptied the res and ran it from then and it been fine. Just need to sort the intermittent clutch issue now! From time to time the clutch misses its bite spot then suddenly jerks forward!

steelsey wrote: From time to time the clutch misses its bite spot then suddenly jerks forward!

SP2 Clutch conversion. .....
Just went and dug out the old post and I can see you've already been therehttp://www.hondavtrsp.com/forum/vi ... f=15&t=968
It was probably listed on RC51 or speedzilla why don't you try tracking it down and see what the members thought who got it done. The friction plates were about £8-9 each when I repaired mine so it shouldn't be an over the top cost for the fix.

Pete

Cheers Pete, I looked into it and it looked expensive! I'm gonna strip the clutch today and have a look if I can see anything untoward. Did you just replace the friction plates then? I'm surprised honda didn't recall the bikes if this is a known problem

Mine was easy.
I kept all the steels, as there was no sign if wear and only had to replace two of the friction plates. They were very easy to spot and on either end of the clutch basket. I also had put some uprated EBC replacement springs when I first noticed the clutch was slipping.
The only thing I would watch out for is the clutch push rod in the centre of the clutch working its way towards you and all the fluid in the clutch reservoir pushing the slave cylinder forward. Also, if any new plates aren't soaked overnight in some engine oil they will slip after you reassemble and you'll have to soak them again
Of course, I didn't have a jerky pull away at above 4k, mine simply started slipping in the high gears at highish revs. If I was you, I would pull it apart and check all your plates and the plate basket and then only replace the worn bits (if any) and the judder springs to convert it into the SP2 configuration.

Pete