POWER COMMANDER MAPS / AIR FLAP

[Jayboy]

Hi guys, does anyone have a map they would be willing to share with me? My bike has a PCIII non USB fitted to it and I think it was mapped for previous race cans.
I've just bought the bike wearing standard exhausts and last week my mate said it stinks of fuel following me - we checked and it does have a different map but seems to still be leaned out more thatn the ones available from the power commander site.
Yesterday we had a fiddle and we settled on one that says stock bike, stock exhausts / stock or K&N filter. It runs OK but feels a bit less quick up top and the new map doesn't state if it is for a Euro-spec bike or not..

I can't see it was that rich, collecting the bike and riding home took about 70 miles of low / medium speed riding and then I was blasting around locally and I got 120 miles before the light came on..
I will hopefully get some cans on there and re-use that map that was on there, or find one for the specific cans, but until then can anyone help / advise.?

[Jayboy]

Oh yeah, I noticed from other SP1s on the net that what must be the air-flap actuator is not there on my bike, there is some sealing tape over the top of the inlet tract under the clocks.

[Sppete]

I think you'll find if you choose any of the maps ending with the last three digits starting with a 5 ie M114 501 it will be for a European model. Try a few different ones and see how they feel. If you don't like what you have you'll have to get a custom one to get the optimum results.
Actually, why don't you disconnect it completely , only takes 10 minutes, and get a feel for a completely stock setting and then try a few maps once you have the feel for a std non pwr com map? It might save you searching for something that's not there.

Pete

PS
Just remembered, if you have K&N filters make sure you put the foam back inside them on std pipes. You get turbulence in the air box and rough running with out them.

[Jayboy]

Cheers, I am gonna annoy my mate and try a couple at the weekend I think.
I am also thinking of fitting standard air filters and some new plugs when I do an Oil, coolant and brake fluid service soon.
The air flap is removed as far as I can tell, the actuator isn't there, so I assume they took the flap out, she don't half bellow through the inlet!
Shame there's not a standard map on the PC website, the 'zero map' on the PC has no alterations at all in the mixture value boxes, I thought they came with a slightly modified map when installed - or would that be overwritten when the bike was mapped before?

[Sppete]

Hi Jay
I've just had a look at the std map (SP2) and there are quite a few changes in the stock map. Try Map 501. The zero map would be more like a blank canvas, a starting point to make your own adjustments.
A bit of advice I was given from a tuner was if you are selecting a map to start with and there isn't a dyno jet map to download, select one which has the same size canister and bore as the one you are running and start from there. It should get you pretty close and dont forget to zero your throttle setting
Have fun, and I hope you drive the neighbours and your mate mad on the weekend

Pete

[Jayboy]

Cheers, Pete.
Can I use a map for a PCII though on my III ?
If so all well and good, I'd only looked at the ones available for the III and they aren't great choices to be honest.
I have currently used the 301 for about 50 miles, it was hard to do a back to back comparison as I'd just had the -1T front sprocket fitted aswell.
I don't think it is as powerful as it was to be honest and It did feel a bit weedy when it was cold, which made me worried about it being a US spec map and not being too good for my bike.
If the PCII maps are no good, I think I will revert to what was on the bike and just wait and see what cans I get.
I notice on RC51.org / Rogue, that he mentions how critical a good set of plugs are to an SP - the fact mine has a bit of a patchy service history means I don't know how recent they are, so they will be changed a.s.a.p.
Wish I'd got the bike before the darker evenings arrived, hard to find time to do these things now really!
Thanks again for your input... Jay

[Sppete]

I've just been having a little mooch around the site and then realised you have an SP1 and not the SP2. I know the power commanders are the same but I'm pretty sure the maps are completely different so the map numbers I was referring to won't be of any use at all I reckon I've fed you a big old bunch of baloney Sorry fella
I don't know if the II and the III maps are switch able. I'd guess not. Not that I'm a cynic but making an update to a product is normally a good way to generate more money
What you've heard about the plugs it right though
Personally, unless your plugs are shagged, I'd wait until after you have found a map you like. It's pretty easy to kill the advantage of having nice new plugs if they get shitted up with an bad map and as you can't clean the iridium plugs very effectively I'd get a close map first and then change them.
If your service history is in question it sounds as if you're doing the right thing. It'd be a right laugh if you found your plugs were shagged and your air filter was stuffed. You might end up back on your original map and running superb

Pete

[Jayboy]

LOL Pete, never mind, I did wonder. I may just revert back to the map it had before, I know it will accept some cans straight off then, plus it must have been mapped for the flap being removed. I think it had a set of Arrow cans on there before.
Regarding the plugs / air filters - my thoughts exactly, it doesn;t have trouble starting or anything, but if the filters aren't clean and the plugs are 10k or more old, it won;t help will it - it can;t be that bad, the ends of the cans aren't black and I got decent enough range out of a tank..
If it was going on to the fuel light at 80 miles I'd be worried!
Roll on Sunday morning ! !