Race Alternator Kit

[Mark L]

Good morning everyone,
I have been experimenting with a Race Alternator Kit and have hit a brick wall.
The Rotor has lost a percentage of its magnetic strength and the magnet material is a granulated type, [like magnetite]. I would like to have a replacement made using something like - Rare Earth Neodymium N52 Magnets so as to obtain maximum output.
Any assistance, i.e. Names and addresses of anyone in the world that could assist would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Mark

[5parkyuk]

west country windings ?

[Mark L]

Thanks, but no good...... very hard to get real tech help or advise from here via email.
I first approached them early last year and at the time there were advertising the kits for sale, the lady who answers the emails didn't even realise this and then suddenly they were no longer available.... and then no help at all.

Its very frustrating when business advertise that they sell a part, then when you buy it on line, they then advise no longer available... Story of my life when buying mod parts.

I have almost totally given up on this!

Cheers
Mark

[tony.mon]

If you increase field strength would you not also create more "drag" and lose some power?
In a car, for example, the tickover speed decreases when you turn headlights on.

Or maybe this is just when a load is applied....

Any decrease in rotational mass would offset this, so perhaps lightening the flywheel might be worth considering, although a racing flywheel will be lighter already.

What would the extra load be used for?
My guess is endurance racing lights rather than heated clothing.

Re a source for rare earth magnets, perhaps the companies developing electric bikes might be a good contact.
Seems like they're using the latest and most powerful magnets for their motors, and if you can find out where they source them those companies might be able to help you.

[Mark L]

Thanks for taking the time to post a reply.
The big problem is Qty! I have spoken to businesses in China that can manufacture what I need but unless its 1000+ units not interested!
The theory of the design is very sound and believe me its has a huge impact on how the engine responds [Fantastic!!!] I just can't develop enough strength in the rotor to charge the battery. Have aligned [moved] the stator in and out to find the optimum position but still not enough voltage.

Cheers
Mark

[tony.mon]

You might want to consider lightening the crank and clutch basket to achieve the same result, or running a total loss battery pack, with an additional lithium battery.
I assume that you already run one?
Doubled up they should get you three hours running or so, so the question is, how long do you ride for?
Another option is to disconnect and remove the water pump and run an electric one, again, you lose rotating mass.
Other options further down the drive train include a 520 chain and sprocket set and lightweight wheels.

[Mark L]

Thanks Tony.mom.

Not keen at all to crack the engine cases again, the crank, rods and pistons have all be balanced on the rebuild.

There isn't much to be had in the clutch basket area to reduce weight.

Its a good philosophy to remove parasitic loads to a point.

Total loss systems have Voltage problems i.e. ignition coils like nice and strong primary voltages so, as the battery runs down, so does the spark quality, also slipper clutches don't like to be jumped started so I found out last year ..... so it doesn't take much to loose the kick out of the battery to start the engine.... example after one fills up with fuel it wouldn't restart after 1hrs of riding.

Anyway.... mods always have problems and my goal is to maintain reliability, as being stuck on the side of the road isn't any fun.

Cheers
Mark

[Mark L]

An Update [a story of grief].
I found and purchased a new race kit from Electrex World Ltd, the kit is made really well but doesn't work! [unbelievable given they claim been making them for eight years ]

Now, the run down of events...……………………….

1/ Purchased 2nd April £489.28 VAT exc.
2/ Sent an email through the web portal requesting availability of the kit and estimated delivery time [no response] same day of purchase
3/ After three emails I got a response via a direct email address …….. "Hello Mark, apologies for the delay. We are having to make the stator for this kit; I will have a better idea tomorrow when the kit can be available." [10th Apr so it took 8 days to get a response ]
4/ Kit was shipped on the 12th Apr express DHL - great service from them!
5/ Kit arrived 16th Apr, looks great and 'the real business' - happy so far.
6/ Its now Sat 21st Apr going to install the kit
7/ I have a bit of experience with race kits so should be a walk in the park, NOW this is were it all starts to go to shit.
- No instruction, is a bit of a surprise given most countries require it, not a big deal as I said before, been here many times before.
- The kit has machine screws of a few sizes 3x countersunk [no countersunk holes on the kit?] anyway after quickly allocating what goes were two screws left over to mount a Rect/Reg of different lengths [not a big deal but, been building this for eight years!]
- The Rect/Reg unit supplied is a two wire ouput unit and the OEM wiring is a three wire unit one wire goes through the killswitch /ignition switch
[this can't be fixed by simply joining the two (+ve) wires together as this changes how the system works i.e. the ignition key will not turn the engine off [from previous challenges]
- Hence no instructions [great]
- The stator has an OEM plug to suit the OEM Rect/Reg unit 'the output cable is 60% too short to reach the Rect/Reg unit'...… again, been making them for 8 years!
8/ As expected a new gasket will be required £11 each [ended up using Qty.3] $$$$$$
9/ Pulled the bike apart and removed the engine sidecover and removed all the OEM gear, Stator, Pulse Generator and Flywheel off the Crank.
10/ Install all of the kit [except the Rect/Reg unit retaining the original unit] and manufactured an extension wiring lead for the Stator output
11/ THE BIG MOMENT- START TIME
12/ The bike Did Not Want to Start at All, I ran the battery flat trying, didn't even fire at all. The bike starts normally very quickly and every time in standard configuration.

13/ Sent an email off to Electrex World Ltd on the 21st Apr and explained what had happened, yep no reply!
14/ Sent another email on the 25th Apr requesting a reply
15/ Finally got a reply from the receptionist "Thank you for your email. Unfortunately the Tech guy has been away for a week or so but will be back on Monday...……."
16/ Sent another email on the 3rd May requesting a reply from the Tech Guys...… still haven't a reply 5th May

What a Bullshit company this lot are, stay clear.

The kit obviously doesn't work and its in the Pulse Generator area where the issue is, I manufactured a new mounting bracket to move the pickup closer to the flywheel similar to the OEM air gap...... not the massive gap using the EW kit bracket [OEM = 0.35mm EW= 0.65mm]

The bike just barely started but was running very rich and took the bike for a ride, turned around after 1km and went home and removed the kit from the bike reverting it back to standard and YES it started and ran like a dream - fantastic.

My assumption is, the RPM signal being generated is 'Confused' and causing the problem, the induction segments [qty 12] on the flywheel are not as high as the OEM [OEM=3.18mm EW= 1.82mm]

I know how to fix the issue but will cost @ £230 in machining and after all its a kit, that they have been manufacturing for 8 years. There are just too many discrepancies between the OEM clearances/spec and what they are suppling in the RPM generator area.

Anyone looking to purchase this kit 'buyer beware' especially if you reside overseas.

Cheers

Mark